Munnar to Kodaikanal - Tea Country!

We hired a driver to take us from Munnar to Kodaikanal as it was said to be a very winding and long bus ride. This was the view out the front window for much of the ride. Once we got over the automatic reaction to the visual input we relaxed (true everywhere in India and Sri Lanka). There is an amazing sense of co-operation on the road and an equally amazing ability on the part of the drivers to estimate how much space they have to maneuver.

Glorious mountain views - and since we had a driver we could actually stop to appreciate them.

 We watched the women cutting the tea and the tool they used explained how the bushes could be so evenly cut.

Not so hot up here in the highlands, but still the sun is strong and they are not in any shade. We learned that the workers make between $120-150 a month. Plus housing, utilities and medical. A day and a half off per week. Eight hour days ensured by the union. Days off for the religious holidays, of which there are many here in India! Vacations not really an option but there is flexibility for family emergencies.

Carrying the full bags down a long steep hill to the collection center. I thought of how Thich Naht Hahn teaches to look deeply. The amount of work that precedes our act of putting a tea bag into hot water is astonishing. From clearing the very steep hillsides to planting the bushes.  Watering. Fertilizing. Cutting. Carrying. Loading. Drying. Fermenting. Transporting. Packaging. All of it by mostly manual labor. I hope I shall remember these hard working and smiling people as I sip my cup the next time. And NEVER complain about the high price of tea!!

The geometry and patterns of the tea bushes were so appealing.

Down and down we wound to the plains for 2 hours. Then a welcome stop for coconut water from this lovely woman.

There were several other sellers along this stretch - but this woman had decorated her area with marigolds and a "fence" made from all the straws. When Glenn added to her installation by weaving his straw around the uprights she broke into the most beatific smile.

Another hour through the lowlands and then a climb back up for several more hours. We think it took about 2 hours to do 40 miles. We knew Bob Granner's house was 6-7 miles out of Kodai but the road kept getting smaller and smaller until it was more like a cow track. We pulled into a small parking area just as the road completely petered out and within seconds were greeted by these lovely ladies. The whole thing about servants is such a strange barrier for us. They are so precisely attuned to the needs of the people they serve. And it was such a stretch here and in the home we stay at in Sri Lanka to simply get up from the table after a meal, for example, and leave everything behind. Here it was even more formal as we were addressed as ma'am(mum) and sir.

Such a lovely sight after so much travel. Beautiful terraced gardens and lots of birds. And 2 kittens to play with!

Bob says they only do this for guests but I have a feeling that this artistry goes on all the time.

We visited the onsite pottery studio that Bob and others have started.

 And I got to try my hand at a long forgotten skill of throwing a pot. Not as forgotten as I had anticipated!

Breakfast on the porch with Bob and Jay. Not as cool as the jackets might indicate. Definitely a welcome respite.

Who would have thought that we'd be treated to a chamber music concert in a private home. Kodai is quite the cultural haven.

And we got to watch the villagers amazement as they watched a film crew at work. 

It was hard to leave such a haven of peace, good food, bird watching and interesting company. But a day in Madurai was calling before our return flight to Sri Lanka.

Thattekkad Bird Sanctuary

A long traffic-filled bus ride from Alleppy to the Bird Sanctuary.  We alit in what was supposed to be the small village of Kothamangalam  (we don't think at this point in our travels that small villages exist!). There were at least a dozen buses at the depot and masses of people. It was lunch time and the options were slim, if not dicey.  What to do?  We crossed our fingers and went in here to make our choice.  Very little English was spoken but they were so accommodating and helpful. When in doubt always go to the fallback choice of chicken biryani. They watched our luggage as we ate - and of course watched us as well. I think they approved of our ability and willingness to eat with our hands. Our guts were safe!!

What a joy to be out in nature after so many days in extremely populated areas. And in a homestay with a family that also loves nature.

Got some great bird shots - here's an anhinga drying its wings.

And a rufous backed woodpecker as seen from our balcony.

Finally found out the name of this beauty seen in Sri Lanka - an Asian Paradise Flycatcher, of the female variety.  The male has a long tail like the drongo.  

A chestnut headed bee eater.

A red vented bulbul

Amazing giant squirrels here! Tails about 2-3 feet long. They eat the coconuts off the trees.

***** Time for truthiness - next shots copied from the internet because I couldn't watch with binocs and take a photo!


Rocket tailed drongo!!!

Sri Lankan Frogmouths

An Imperial Mountain Pigeon - 2 feet tall!

A blue tailed bee eater.

A blue winged leaf bird.

A rufous treepie.

And a Malabar trogon.

Well I could go on - but you got the idea.  We may never be satisfied with our home birds again!!!

Kerala Backwaters

The town of Alleppy was much more crowded than we anticipated, sigh, but a day-long cruise on the canals soothed our nervous systems!

Lots of rice fields and open space and fresh (but HOT) air.  Have I mentioned it is hot???  95 degrees and about the same humidity. 

We took a large boat through the wide waterways and disembarked to walk to a local home for breakfast. No roads go to these villages - most travel is by boat or narrow paths.

This was our canoe for the day!

Fellow travelers being rowed around with us.

Villagers waiting for the next ferry.

And here it is!  All aboard.

Floating by shamelessly peering into the lives of the villagers - so peaceful.  Washing the clothes....

Washing the dishes ....

Washing the baby.  All that soap can't be good for the water quality, but everyone seems pretty healthy.  We even saw one fellow wash his face and then drink from the canal. Good gut biome!!

After a few peaceful hours we returned to the same home for a traditional lunch served on banana leaves - makes my environmental heart sing!

A leisurely walk back to the big ferry past the women working the rice fields. Smiling through the heat while I am melting and scrambling for any small bit of shade I can find.

Glenn gets a beard trim on the way home at the local "saloon" - what a splurge at 75 cents!

That evening to get cool  (have I made it clear how hot it is???) we head to the beach which is crowded with people fully clothed wading in the water.  The women here are particularly amazing. They are either dressed in long pants with a long dress past their knees PLUS a scarf or in a tight short blouse and wrapped in a sari which is several yards of material, often silk or polyester. Not to mention the Muslim women completely shrouded in black. I sweat just looking at them! 

We walk in the village on our way back to the hotel and see these amazing lights which we think must be a carnival in town.  But no, it is a Catholic church, Indian style. Flashing neon lights and chanting. Not sure if a blog can support a video - but let's see!

Two nights later we were staying at a hotel at the beach and saw all the villagers cleaning the sand paths and setting up altars. We learned that it was the 10th day of a celebration in honor of San Sebastian and that a parade was coming!

Here comes the parade!!

And here is the lovely family that served us tea as we waited and included us in their celebration.

 Thanks Grace and George!