Saturday, January 30, 2016

Bangalore

Been in India for a week but still catching up!!  After the most hideous day ever of arguing about our visa problem we finally made it to Bangalore - to the  wondrous architecture of this very modern airport. And picked up by Pooja's personal driver so we didn't have to guess about how to arrive at her apartment.  So wonderful to see her after almost 7 years!  Photo to come for all of you to enjoy who also knew her at Middlebury.



After a good might's sleep we ventured out on a shopping expedition and to see her neighborhood.  So many people draw these rangolis every day on the sidewalk by their entrances to ensure good luck for the day.



We passed by the local cricket club and watched the practice for awhile. Glenn is determined to watch a game - and begin to understand the rules of this mysterious game. It was fascinating to watch the mechanics of the pitching.



Another of Glenn's fascinations is to watch the construction techniques. Not exactly to OSHA standards. Especially the bare feet!  These are tough people!


We worked up an appetite after some shopping - good thing we had Pooja as a guide because the menu would have been a total guess!  This was delicious fresh food - sadly we haven't found more like it this past week, even after carefully writing down all the names of the things we ate!


We stopped at Pooja's tailor to pick up her new sari.  And while there she received a call from Farhan, the other student we hosted when she was at Middlebury because he had heard (from another former student, Sam, who we had Skyped with that morning!) that we were visiting.  So there's Glenn in the background on the phone to him in Singapore!  It's just amazing how connected we can be despite the distances. (Sam was in New Orleans when we talked with him - but on his way in a few days to his new job in HongKong).
Pooja has a new job working with Goldman Sachs doing diversity training around women and LGBT issues. We feel so fortunate to have these connections with such amazing young folks who are doing great work in the world.




We passed a guitar shop and of course Glenn needed to stop in - just to keep his calluses intact. So we played a bit of music.




On Republic Day (the anniversary of the Indian constitution) we visited Lal Bagh Botanical Gardens to see the Flower Show (with about a million other folks!).  The real flowers were the Indian women who dress so spectacularly - and not just for these special events.




They even manage to gracefully ride side-saddle on motorbikes in their gorgeous silk saris!!! 


We didn't see a single other Westerner at the Festival so we were a big hit! People wanting pictures of themselves with us. And school kids vying to practice their English.  (Note my lack of glorious Indian sartorial finesse - the clothes are simply not made for foreign sizing! Nor my sense of how to stay cool in such a hot environment!)



Pooja's friend Jacob was our guide for the day. He brought along BLT sandwiches which he made from his own home-smoked bacon!  A most interesting fellow who is working at a non-profit organization to make direct connections between farmers and wholesalers.



On the way home Jacob asked if we minded to stop at another park for the birthday party for a friend's one-year old daughter.  Why not?  Always good to have local connections. Amazingly the first man we met turned out to be a Midd grad!!  And he lived around the block from Pooja!!
We enjoyed a picnic with them and played a game called Pass the Parcel. There was a huge parcel wrapped in newspaper that got passed around the circle. When the music stopped the person with the parcel took off one layer of paper to get a prize. We won a rubber lizard and some magnetic alphabet letters. And laughed a lot!



The best thing about Bangalore was having plenty of time to catch up with Pooja and have a sense of her day-to-day life in that enormous city. We were very sad to leave.

Thursday, January 28, 2016

Wildlife and a Rest Day



We took the bumpiest ride of our lives to have a chance to see wild elephants.  Along with way too many other jeeps, alas.  We did spot this gorgeous crested eagle hawk.




And finally a herd of elephants!!



The next day was a well-deserved rest day at our guest house, which had an ayurvedic doctor and massage center.

We enjoyed a lovely conversation with this beautiful man who exuded kindness and compassion.



And found a new bird - name to be discovered one day? 



When our guesthouse manager complained of a sore shoulder I couldn't help it - had to get out my needles.  The next day he said it was all better - and gave us a free dinner!!!! YUM!



We met a great couple and their son from Montreal along the way and have plans to reconnect with them this summer.


So long Habarana.... 


And welcome back to Colombo where our host family got dressed up for a wedding.



Tuesday, January 26, 2016

Dambulla Caves

Two hours north of Kandy we visited the Dambulla CaveTemple, created first around the third to second century BCE and added to until the 12th century. All of these statues were carved in situ! There are 153 of them.  They were painted and gilded in 1190 CE and restored in the 18th century. 


This one is over 40 feet long!


















Paintings covering the ceilings.







Monday, January 25, 2016

Peradenyia Botanical Gardens

A little color for my winterized friends.......

These gardens were originally only accessed by the royalty in Sri Lanka - what a blessing to have them available for all of us. Lots of families and courting couples strolling this enormous park.


Spent lots of time in this glorious orchid house








The trees here are DIVINE!






And a wonderful surprise to find my favorite tree of all - the kauri which I thought could only be found in New Zealand!!  Of course I had to honor it with tree pose!


Train to the Kandian highlands

Traveling on our own without the help of our guide and translator Iraj! Had a gorgeous train ride up to Kandy through the mountains.


Ladies in every day saris as viewed from the train. 


A laundry business in Kandy on the side of a main road - not sure how clean they can remain with all the traffic going by!!! 



We visited the Temple of the Tooth - where it is said that one of the Buddha's teeth is enshrined. A very holy pilgrimage for Buddhists. 


Lighting incense.


And here we are in proper temple attire - all white is preferred. They almost didn't let me in because my blouse had a cap sleeve which may not have covered my shoulder enough. Either it was OK or they took pity on an uninformed foreigner.

Afterwards to a juice shop - have I mentioned that it is HOT here??  I know that doesn't sound too awful for my northern friends, but really 85 degrees and 85% humidity coupled with the strength of equatorial sun is very intense. Mad dogs and Englishman has become much more understandable.  Didn't actually try this one - something strange about mixing avocado with ice cream. But enjoyed a refreshing passionfruit juice and soursop. YUM.

And then a visit to a Hindu temple which was quite busy as it was the Tamil New Year celebration. Sri Lanka is mostly Buddhist but has a sizable Hindu population as well as Muslim. We enjoy hearing the call to prayer in most places that we visit.





First outing all by ourselves!

Well we bravely set out to explore Colombo on our own as Iraj was working on his Ph.D applications. Found Viharamahadevi Park (AKA Victoria Park) and walked about enjoying the greenery.



Nice gent showed us where the fruit bats were roosting - they were as big as crows, flying about in the daytime.

Then off to a temple. I just love how the Buddhists place flowers at the feet of the statues.


And then the adventure of finding our way home!  With tuk-tuk drivers who didn't know our neighborhood and couldn't understand the way we were pronouncing the road names. Most signs are in the Sinhala alphabet - lots of circles and curlicues - and completely incomprehensible to us. Many people tried to help us. We walked a long ways in terrible heat, traffic, poor or no sidewalks, exhaust, etc. Until we finally swallowed our pride and borrowed a phone to call Iraj. Only to find we were just 2 blocks away - and had passed right by because we hadn't fixed in our visual memory what his corner looked like. We'd just gotten a bit lazy with him being our guide and forgot some of the basic rules of travel!