Tuesday, February 23, 2016

Return to Sri Lanka



We return to Sri Lanka - and even though we have another visa problem we are happy to be here and feel the peace of this Buddhist country with its lovely temples.


The simple and sincere adoration of the people is so sweet.


And we are fortunate to have Iraj explaining all the symbolism of the various statues and the stories on the murals. Such an ancient and deep tradition.

Even the ceilings are gorgeously painted.



And we are delighted to be back to home-cooked meals! And vegetables, which were sadly missing in most of India.


We finally get to meet Iraj's friends - the Girl Posse. Absolutely delightful young women who have a rollicking good time teasing each other - but can just as easily slip into  deep and interesting conversation. And who can complain about drinks and food right on the beach! (Other than the price of cocktails which was at US standards!)


The next day we leave for our own beach experience - really craving some nature and some chill-out time.  Though chill-out is a funny term considering the temperatures here!  Beach breezes heal all. And we found a lovely Italian cafe to quench our desire for real coffee and Western food - getting tired of all the curries and the stews. We find it strange that so much of the food is heavy stews that seem more suited to a winter climate.

Wide beaches with clean sand - impossible to walk on in the midday sun.  Big winds in the afternoons.


On Sunday it was packed with locals. Just amazing to watch women in saris wading into the sea squealing and laughing!


Tired of the crowds and traffic and realizing just how much India has sapped us we venture further north on the west coast to a posh Belgian owned retreat. A bit of a splurge and we soak it up. Six small cottages.


A glorious comfy bed with ironed and soft sheets! 


A shower open to the air!


Lovely art scattered about the grounds.



A pool!!!  With chairs in the shade!

Outdoor dining

Western breakfast! And dinners! Cooked by Belgian chefs!

Chairs by the riverside. And canoes for bird watching paddles.


A guitar for Glenn to work on his softening calluses while awaiting breakfast.


A sweet baby cow named Elodie

Bikes available for a ride to the beach.



Beautiful gates to many of the homes, even the less fancy ones.

The strangest tree here. The bark looks like a pine but obviously NOT! 



We tear ourselves away from 2 days of peace, quiet, good meals and physical exercise!  Back to Colombo to take the family out for a thank you dinner. The railroad stations all are so nicely kept - there is competition among them to win the prize of the most beautifully kept.

It is a most raucous ride as we are in a car with a large group of young men who sing and chant the whole way! 


We enjoy a fabulous meal of Jaffna curried crab - until the bill comes and we find we have paid $65 for the crab alone. Everyone takes their share of embarrassment as we don't have enough cash to pay after inviting them and they haven't asked about the price of the day. Still - a great meal with great company.

Tuesday, February 16, 2016

Signs of India



Been waiting all trip to have this collection finished. Whenever we travel we always find a lot of amusement from the signs we see. Spelling and grammar mishaps and cultural mysteries abound. No offense meant - we think about signs in English like "Slow Children" or "Slow Men at Work".

So please enjoy along with us!


We flew from Sri Lanka to India on SpiceJet - on a propeller plane!


Sign on the bus that took us from the plane to the terminal:


And next to it....




We didn't come here to hike - just looking to try on some pants.


But we'd love to hike here!



We were not aware that wearing pants could be ironic.



Something vaguely naughty about this restaurant?



I am without words here.....



Why the yellow wall?

Could have done a whole album on bus and tuk-tuk signs. We're still puzzling about what baselious means.



Do we have to cover our head to do so??

A small reminder from our tuk-tuk driver - always good to know.




Happy to see a localvore movement in Bangalore!

Also a movement to honor seniors!


And the beginnings (and I mean the VERY beginnings) of trash awareness



Pretty powerful chickens here!



Can't agree more!!

Monday, February 15, 2016

Madurai

Although Madurai is a city of over a million it somehow retains a village feel - at least in the old center where there are narrow lanes and a designated pedestrian zone around the temple.
But first a trip to the Gandhi Museum, housed in an old palace. We were very absorbed by the clear panels about the history of the push for independence from the British. Even more horrifying than we knew. and we wondered how the Brits had the man-power, even during WWII, to maintain such control.



A small shrine room painted black held the dhoti in a lit glass case that Gandhi wore the day he was killed. We were happy to have some private moments here as our emotions ran high sensing his presence and influence.
All of these precepts still hold, maybe the need is even greater.


And then on to the Meenakshi Temple, 


Gorgeous ceilings.





There are 5 of these towers, all covered with carvings. We kept trying to imagine how long this took and how many people just chipping away at the rock. Incomprehensible actually!


They say that 15,000 people visit each day, but it did not seem crowded.


Watching the people making offerings was very beautiful.

These men were rubbing wet clay around - we never got an explanation of what this was about.


People did the most amazing ritualistic movements in front of this statue of Ganesh.  Bobbing up and down several times, then crossing their arms to use their fists to pound on their temples and pull their earlobes. Another mystery of religion!


Some details of the carvings.



As we walked around town in the morning we noticed that many banks and big jewelry stores were having poojas with chanting and percussion.

Just love the colorful sari shops - they are everywhere!  Probably 99% of women wear them here in the south. They clean, they garden in them - I wonder if they sleep in them too???


Such lovely produce - but no where for us to cook this bounty!


Snacks fried to order.


The slogans on the buses and tuk-tuks are always so delightful.  Any Body Can Dance.

Stay tuned for the next post - the signs of India!